This may sound tougher than
it is. It's really quite easy. Take a clear rod. I like to use a 7 or
8 mm one. Anything larger is just a bit too much to handle. I
prefer to use Lauscha glass for the punties because it doesn't seem to
crack and dump the whole thing on your work surface halfway through. I
work on a hothead so you may have to make some minor changes to
these directions (no pun intended....or maybe it was).
Heat up a large gather and
push it against your marver creating a flat surface. This will be your
||Now your rod should like like
the one to the left.
This step is optional, but
highly recommended. Take a color rod that changes color in the heat,
like yellow or red. paint a stripe along one side as shown. The
purpose of this stripe is to show you when an area of the rod is
losing too much heat. Try to remember to keep 3 or 4 inches at the end
of the rod hot. Failure to do so will cause the rod to crack and it
may fall off. If this happens, pick it up with a pair of pliers and,
using the flame, weld the two parts back together. As you're working
on your Murini, don't forget to check the stripe every now and again
to see if you need to add heat to the rod.
||Now turn your rod so that the
flat surface is facing you. Using stringer, paint a simple
pattern/design on your working surface. You can use a pick or other
sculpting tools to help push the hot glass where you want it to go. This painting/layer should be
no more than the thickness of a commercial stringer. If there is no
clear background as part of your Murini (like in the smiley faces
above), make sure your color covers the entire working surface to the
edges and that it goes all the way through the layer (more important
when working on second and third layers. If there is a clear background (like in the duck or fish
below), include the clear area in your painting. Once you have this
completed, do it again, and then again. You're aiming for your
painting to be about 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick. If your working surface
begins to sag in any area, use your marver or sculpting tools to push
it back into shape.
Your rod should now look
fairly similar to this. Now look across the top and see if there are
any low areas. If there are, fill them in so that everything across
the top is fairly even. With a second clear rod, put a layer of
clear on the top, then build up a cone area and position the rod to
act as a punty.
||The center area between the
two rods should now look something like this. Once the second rod has
set into position, start twirling and heating the center mass till it
is fairly hot.
Walk your mass along your
marver, pushing down slightly - twirling it and pulling gently outward
as you do. What you're trying to do is decrease the diameter of the
center mass while elongating it. Heat up the center mass and do
it again, as many times as it takes to make the painted area
almost 1/2 an inch thick. Be sure when turning the rods that you keep
the entire unit together as one so you won't create twists in the hot
glass. Now you're ready to heat the center mass again and
pull slowly out making a Murini rod.
Congratulations! You've now
made a Murrine. Now that I've shown you mine, how about you show me